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19 June 2008 Western Canada has provided an array of memorial experiences from the vast selection of wildlife, mountain scenery, the Canadian National Biathlon Team training on Highwood Pass (they road-ski up the Pass, down the other side for 10kms before turning around and running back up) to the Panama To Alaska Friendship Rally www.globalrally.org.uk of 20 cars and three support vehicles taking in all that is offered across nine countries and 18,000kms. Talking with these people their passion for adventure is obvious and it is clear to see their vision is firmly fixed on the horizon!
The cycling scene is just as rich. While the first sporting thought is usually on ice hockey (not to mention the 250 team national road-ball hockey league that took up 3 city blocks for a weekend competition) there is weekly racing on Calgary's own outdoor 400mtr velodrome, regular road races around the country and the Midweek Mayhem Criterium Series held on a semi-closed circuit at the University. This course is mad with riders having to avoid road gravel, man-hole covers, parked and moving cars, not to mention any unsuspecting pedestrian! Check it out at www.midweek-mayhem.ca and compare it to your own track. But, alas, time to move on and get some European tarmac under the wheels. North America provides a contrast of world class wine regions and seaside living to experiences across the top of the world. All distinctly different, yet all individually spectacular. Looking up I can see the horizon looming....... 16 June 2008
The area around Lake Windemere is a favourite riding area for mountain bikers. With an abundance of ride options from extreme to the very soft they often go off for hours on end up and down the mountains. Given the possibility of coming across a bear is very real they always ride in bunches and will carry "bear-bangers" to scare off any pesky critter that might want to disturb their ride. At the end of their ride they'll "tailgate" - sit on the tailgate of their trucks and drink cold beer. The road riders have it somewhat different. While there are some that might suggest "car-bangers" might add some enjoyment to their ride, beer is most definitely not on the post-ride menu. Caffeine will do, thanks very much! Starting my ride in Inveremere along the shores of Lake Winderemere, there was 13kms of undulating descending to reach Radium Hot Springs and the first test of the day. From Radium it was 10kms of gradual climbing of an average of 6% with some sections briefly reaching 13%. In Radium I met a couple from the UK touring across Canada from Vancouver to Montreal. Paul and Vicky left Vancouver on the 5th of June and were planning to take about two months to get to their destination. Camping most of the way meant their bikes were carrying alot more than my simple toolkit and food supplies, but they made it up the climb out of Radium without any concerns. With plenty of room on the road and some very pleasant scenery we were at the top in no time at all. A brief stop to take it in and put on some wind protection, it was time to fly the 20kms or so downhill to the (essentially) flat section of Highway 93.
With another collection of cars 10kms up the road I was beginning to feel like joining a group of mountain bikers. This time though the wildlife was a posse of big horned mountain goats having a feed. There were a couple of smaller ones that looked like they were just babies. Thinking that I should get on if I was going to make my meeting time in Lake Louise it was time to be off. However, with a reminder of who we share this planet with I came across another bear poised in front of a group of cars taking pictures. I snapped a couple and left. Further down the road was a community of wild geese having some lunch who didn't like the look of a lycra-clad cyclists near their young! This festival of nature just didn't stop. There was plenty of time to enjoy the 50kms of slightly undulating road which snakes its' way along the glacier corridor that helped form this area in ages past. The road is smooth and runs alongside these mountains which look like great big mounds of Rocky Road ice cream topped with frosty white chocolate dripping down the side. Recognising an impending hunger-flat I subsequently got stuck into some lunch.... Nearing the end of this road there was another 7km test uphill followed by a speed-fest down to the intersection of highway 1A and the final 15kms to my destination of Lake Louise and travelling support. Those of you who have witnessed the emerald green waters of Lake Louise will understand the beauty and magic of the area. Lake Louise is naturally formed and fed by enormous mineral rich mountains on three sides, with an ever-shrinking glacier on the far side. The water is so green and thick that your hand will disappear in its' colour 10cms below the surface. Paddle across its' surface on a hire-canoe and you get a fantastic view of the whole area. 17 June 2008 One of the most scenic routes in Canada is the Icefield Parkway between Jasper and Banff. It is 230kms of undulating road laid down on a path carved out by ancient glaciers and between mountains that through sheer size alone deserve respect. I was to start this ride near the halfway point at the Columbia Icefield Centre heading back towards Banff. Unfortunately for me, the wind decided to start at that point too! Still, it was time to press on and before I knew it I passed an area where I could see a huge boulder slide the size of cars. It was truly amazing.
Reaching the Sunwapta Pass at 2035 meters it was all-downhill for a long time. I tried to best the speeds of yesterday (87kmh), but it wasn’t to be. Perhaps it’s wise not to tempt fate too much and, besides, there’s plenty more mountains to come. Coming from the other direction I saw a cycling couple pulling a small trailer travelling very slow up the hill. By this time the wind had turned around and was now in front of them. I gave a yell of support and continued on my way. Crossing a bridge it was time to stop for a rest. Walking across the road I happened upon one of the most spectacular falls that I have ever seen called Panther Falls. Further along I came across the Weeping Wall on Cirrus Mountain, an abundance of smaller falls running down dark limestone walls and at one point cycled parallel to the North Saskatchewan River. Absolutely breath-taking. Passing the Peyto Glacier Viewpoint I could see the Peyto Glacier descending from Wapta Icefield. Later on I reached the Bow Summit at an elevation of 2067 meters (the highest elevation in the Icefields Parkway). It is also the second highest pass where a car can drive. The climb was gradual up to the summit and didn’t feel too bad. By the time I reached Lake Louise I was pretty hungry and decided to re-fuel at the corner bakery. They have a range of foods to suit the cyclist with good coffee across the way at the town’s only café. Once satisfied it was time to head out of town on Highway 1A to Banff. Also known as the Bow Valley Parkway, this road is a tunnel of green sprinkled with daisies everywhere and has a gradual decent. With over 100kms already in my legs it wasn’t a problem as this road is so enjoyable to ride. It has been described by a seasoned cycle-tourist as “possibly the best road I’ve ever ridden.” High praise indeed! Finally arriving at the hotel my support crew queried what took me so long, while I queried how many beers they had already downed. Only three pints it seems, but that’s what happens when you send two hikers off for the day…. Time to get showered, change and do my best to catch up with them. 12 June 2008 Swapping the sun drenched valleys and coast of California for the towering peaks of Canada’s Rocky Mountains is certainly a change. Not just in temperature, but also in riding options. California offers a range of side-road options all within easy striking distance of San Francisco. There it’s a case of jump on your bike and ride. The Canadian Rockies demand more commitment than that, but also offer a different level of satisfaction to the committed cyclist. Those of you having ridden the OTHT Rocky Mountain High Tour 2007 will no doubt recall those climbs that literally took your breath away from the length and gradient of the roads, but also the views across the biggest bunch of boulders that make up this mountain range. The header picture on this page is one such view. Encouraged by this it was time to head west and experience what the horizon had in store. First up was a favourite local day ride. The Highwood Pass in Peter Lougheed National Park is a prized ride among local cyclists. The road is closed each year from 1 Dec. to 15 June to allow elk, big horn sheep, deer and moose their spring grazing. You will also find recently awaken-from-hibernation bears seeking out fresh berries and the like to feed their empty stomachs. These critters aren’t usually a problem if you leave them alone (you can even stop to snap their picture), but upset them and you’d better hope your sprinting legs are in shape as these guys can run! Thankfully my legs weren’t put to the test. Highwood Pass is within day trip striking distance of Calgary via the scenic Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail), which connects the Trans Canada Highway with Highway 22X at the foot of the impressive Front Ranges of the Rockies.
We passed several cyclists doing this ride. Every year on the last day of the road being closed there are upwards of 250 cyclists getting in their last chance to enjoy a traffic free ride with the only worry being wildlife and the occasional frosty patch. Around the top of the climb, I saw big horned sheep on either side of the pass. Once we crested the pass, the ride was exceptionally fun taking on a frenetic paceline as big horn sheep, moose and others stared questionably at a pack of seven cyclists speeding past, before returning unperturbed to their fresh berry breakfast. There are few flat or directly uphill stretches along here, which made the pace tough going. After about 20kms of this it was mutually decided to slow and turn around for the run back. From here on we enjoyed the views and lost ourselves in the everyday conversation that happens on a bike - about everything and nothing in particular. This was one of those rides that you just didn’t want to end. Sure it was tough going uphill and as the paceline picked up, but the enjoyment of riding along some of the most picturesque roads in North America made me forget any lactic acid build up I’m still experiencing as I write this. Now it’s time to go deeper into the mountains still to Radium, Invermere and up along the Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper……. |
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