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29 June 2008 The Dolomites Some years ago I happened to be in El Salvador and came across the practice of homeowners cementing in the top of their bricked fences shards of broken glass to dissuade any unwelcome visitors to their property. First glance on the Dolomites conjured up these same images. The Dolomites are determined granite shards lain across your path daring you to first climb their alpine-laced skirts to face off before the strength and power that surely built them in the first place. So dramatic are they that with every pedal stroke you're sure the road is soon to finish only to find yet more switchbacks challenging you on.
And on you go. Up, up, up......then down very, very fast for a long time. Then it's back up, then back down, then back up, then back down. There are occasional periods of horizontal roads, but not many. If you wanted flat you could ride across the Hay Plain. Here you get mountains to go up and over. The thin air at the top of each climb will leave you gasping, while the mountain vistas will leave you breathless.
All sorts enjoy the Dolomites. This is one of 65 that took to the mountains in an annual three day rally of 500cc Topolino cars; versions of a Mickey Mouse car. Each year they travel somewhere different and this time it was Italy, with the drivers coming from all over Europe to participate. There must be something in exotic cars as this is the second rally I've come across. The final day in the Dolomites was the Maratona dles Dolomites, a Fondo ride of 138km, 106km and 55km in and around the heart of the Dolomites. To get a start position you must pre-register and then, if you're lucky, you may get in. Your chances are 50/50 as there were 17,370 pre-registrations for only 8500 places. The main draw card was Mario Cippolini who was centre stage for the start. He received his fair share of publicity not only from the motorbike cameras following the ride, but also from the helicopter overhead.
I've previously spoken about some iconic climbs that really do deserve their status. Alp 'd Huez is one that demands perfection and Col 'd Ilzoard was perhaps the most satisfying to date, but the hardest climb so far has been Tre Cine de Lavaredo. With an unrelenting 13kms to the top including the final 3kms at 18% it was sheer pain. Even zig-zagging across the road to ease the pressure only added to what is sure madness in the minds of those who organise racing up here; something I just cannot fathom. There is acknowledgement of cycling greats that have raced here as seen in this Fausto Coppi memorial on Passo del Pordoi. As I bid farewell to the Dolomites and to Italy there is brief opportunity to experience Verona's outdoor opera house. Built during the Roman times it has survived to become a centre of musical culture and Verona identity. Seemingly, it all seems perfectly suited to farewell Italy. 26 June 2008 Passo dello Stelvio and Passo di Gavia; is it really fair to expect people to race up these climbs? These mountain passes are not for the faint hearted and will challenge how you see yourself as a cyclist. No amount of caffeine (and I've had alot) will help you here if you don't hold a sense of self-belief.
Halfway up Stelvio I came across the Silence-Lotto team out on a training ride. Watching them pass with a "ciao" and wave of a hand I could truly appreciate why they get paid to ride bikes. It was as if I was standing still and they were merrily sauntering along! No doubt they had an up coming race on their minds... Stelvio itself wasn't as challenging as Gavia . Sure it was long and my jersey was open, helmet off, arm warmers down to help cool down the effort, but it was still a hard slog. Even a mid-ride stop to partake in a cold mountain shower courtesy of melting snow failed to cool things down. By the time I reached the top all that water had evaporated anyway! No, the real challenge today was Gavia. From Briancom to the top it was relentless. No room for rest. The switchbacks were just teasers as they didn't afford any real break from the unrelenting climb to the 2621m summit. Yet, after all that, the semi-frozen alpine lake at the top with the monument to JC and views down the valley erased any pain I endured coming up. The views from up here are absolutely stunning. Stunning also is the ride down the other side; or should I say death-defying! One slight mistake and you're over the side on a free-fall of at least 1000m to land in the depth of the valley gorge. You could base jump from the road it's that sharp. The view is breathtaking, as is the possibilities... 25 June 2008 Lago d Como is a naturally forming body of water that looks like an upside-down 'Y' from above. Its' location and size has contributed to a number of communities growing up and around its' banks and made life on the lake very relaxing indeed. People from all over the world visit here to take in what the lake has to offer. The area also boasts cycling some fantastic cycling roads. Professional and amateurs alike train and live here; Australia's very own Cadel Evans is but one. Keen to get in some riding and experience what is on offer I spoke to a local shop who advised of a few different rides where I could jump on and get some good training in.
On responding in my best Spanish (it's easy to get Italian/Spanish mixed up) that it was OK by me these five very welcoming individuals (spontaneously named Il Pensionitos as they are all retired) welcomed me along their ride around Lago di Lagano. Starting out through some industrial areas (it's the same in every city) we entered Switzerland for the first of several such crossings in our effort at negotiating this bordered body of water. The ride itself was undulating, passing through leafy and suburban areas that, given the housing density, lacked any real road traffic and any that did come our way were sure to give space as they passed us. Just past the halfway point we stopped for the essential ride coffee. While our communication was next to nil, we all understood the meaning of 'macchiato'. With the appropriate toast to throw this down and take a photo, it was time to head back towards Como. Waving goodbye I decide the ride-day hadn't finished and set off to navigate the lower half of Lago di Como. The undulating roads took me around the lower half of the hill area to Bellagio and on to Lecco before finishing some 200kms for the day in Como. Some beautiful spots around the Lake District to stop and have a swim or just continue on with very pleasant riding. 23 June 2008 The introduction to Europe could not have been better with a warm welcome from the Wine Faries. I kid you not; these precious little creatures are suspended within a wine tower standing two stories high and holding over 4000 bottles. They seek out your favourite choice and deliver it without hardly a sweat. Upside down, sideways, back to front.....it's an entertaining way to enjoy your meal! Italy is a country with a dynamic history in both cycling and social developments. One cannot escape contributions of both. Having just recently completed an exciting Giro 'd Italia (and waiting for that next big cycling event) the masses have turned to another love, the European Cup. While their boys in blue are no longer in the race there is a constant stream of chatter and excitement whenever scoring occurs. My first day started out thinking I was in a FF Coppola movie when I realised it was a call to arms for the local church. While throngs paraded in for their weekly infusion of meaning, I headed west to France to visit my own (cycling) temple, synagogue, mosque and church..... Col 'd Lautaret (2058m), Col 'd Galibier twice (2566m), Col 'd Telegraph (1598m) and Alp 'd Huez (1860m). The stream of options provided in the Alps and their proximity to western Italy means a cyclist never goes wanting. On this occasion, though, I did go wanting. I wanted more legs, more water, more air, more food, more tail wind and a little less headwind please! This was a ride that from the outset I knew was going to be hard and test any thoughts of endurance I entertained. Still, from the first moment of looking at a map I knew this was one challenge worth attempting. I could wax lyrical about the beauty of these mountain ranges and compare them to other mountain ranges around the world. The similarity to other European mountains, the Canadian Rockies, New Zealand’s' south island, mountains in Asia and Mongolia is apparent. What stands out for the Alps is the spider-like trails the roads weave across their fronts and down their backs. These roads have for centuries lured the adventurer and traveller alike as can be seen in these permanent footprints laid out for future use. Today, though, these roads are a summer playground for cyclists, motorcyclists and hikers alike. They crawl across these granite peaks like ants building a home. Only their home is personal and private, shared through stories of ever building drama....
The first two climbs proved challenging in themselves, the air is definitely thin up here. Near the top of Galibier there was time to stop and pay homage to a defining figure of the TdF, Henri Desgrange, a man who helped to create the largest annual sporting event in the world. Another 200m to climb to the top and the view was outstanding. Slinking down both sides of this behemoth points your only directions of travel. No time to stand around as it is also cold and the descent is hard and fast. Be careful on achieving a high top speed as the corners are tight and consequences for any mistake is harsh. Climbing Telegraph was an easy affair compared to what had already been accomplished and marked the halfway point of today's challenge. Time for a coke and it was off on the return journey back up Galibier and down. This time my legs were definitely screaming out and threatening to go home if my lungs didn't pick up their act. Thinking my internal speak was helping calm the situation I realised it was my heart pumping blood up through my brain, ready to explode! The fresh breeze and opportunity to (sort of) rest on the descent provided some relief. The next big challenge was Alp 'd Huez, a mythical climb made so by the numerous efforts of the world's best. My time was not without a constant sanity check on today's ride. Huez almost put the nail in the coffin, but the counting down on each corner of champions who won the race up helped to confirm I was making progress. Delusional about there being a crowd at the top to celebrate, the township itself was deserted. This winter play land was in summer hibernation today! Following this day of madness was a definite need for a recovery ride and what better place than Col 'd Ilzoard. For 30kms and an ascent to 2360m my body was definitely crying out for less! Given I had missed my local cycling clubs' Hill Climb Championship I thought this effort was due..... yikes! Forget the Royal National Park, try one of these rides on for size. At the top of Ilzoard I met a local who uses the area for training rides and what better place to do it? The climbing is challenging, the view invigorating and the descents hair raising. Dani is lucky enough to have this at his doorstep while also being based in London. He's visited Australia in the past practicing some rock climbing in the mountains west of Sydney. (Well, actually they're mere hills compared to what is around here.) We spoke about riding a loop of the Briancon/Ilzoard/Guillestre area and his sound advice is that with some serious climbing and spectacular descending through steeped gorges, it is definitely a full day's ride and one where some semblance of freshness is require.
Right, another challenge...... To show just how valuable the area is for training I came across another local on an old mountain bike in footy shorts and sand shoes riding up to Ilzoard and back down to Briancon. I wonder how he'd go on a lightweight carbon creation with all the gear? People like this guy makes you feel soft.... I was half expecting him to old-school and pull out a cigarette for the journey back down, but he didn't. One thing I did consider on each of these climbs is how one can feel cheated at the speed at which you get to the bottom after spending so long getting to the top. Seems a bit unfair after all that work. |
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