31 July 2008

 

Leaving the European continent for Asia and beyond is a must-do route for anyone coming to Australia. It marks the halfway point where you can either stop to break the journey up or continue on in a 20 hour travel haze. I chose to stop.

 

Spending a day acclimatizing from hot southern France to humid Thailand wasn’t as difficult as you might think. The difference between the two is that in Bangkok you’re more likely to have two showers a day rather than one; either in water or sweat! Still, the flight went as smoothly as can be expected and getting the bike/luggage to my destination was simple thanks to a very well designed airport transport system. (Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport must rank as one of the world’s best.)

 

Riding your bike in Thailand’s capitol city Bangkok is a lesson in nerves of steel and focused concentration. It’s most definitely not for the faint hearted! Having ridden many roads in many cities I can honestly say Bangkok was the toughest to negotiate so far. Cycling in such a large city can be risky and challenging considering air pollution and Bangkok’s notorious and at times chaotic traffic, but (thankfully) caused no real problems.

 

Fortunately, Bangkok traffic police give the cyclist very little trouble since they think cyclists can really make a difference; reduce air pollution, noise and traffic jams. However, if you do insist on using the roads fellow drivers will not hit you, but expect that they will use their vehicles' horns freely, stare at you, force you to yield, go dangerously close, cut across your way, shout at you - or even throw things at you! If an accident happens and the driver cares to stop he will no doubt be asking why you’re on the road in the first place!

 

Given the short time frame, the number of activities available in a city of six million and my desire to remain accident free, I thought it best to limit the ride options to the surrounding metropolitan area.

 

Just across the Chao Phraya River and a short hop from busy Sukhumvit is an extraordinary place known to the locals as Bang Kra Jao. This amazing wilderness in Bangkok can only be reached by boat as no bridges span this part of the river. Incredibly it has been left untouched by developers.

 

Crossing the river is like taking a journey back in time. Here are places of lush vegetation, a maze of waterways, small villages, temples and real tropical jungle. If it wasn't for Bangkok's skyline, you would never believe you were so close to the city. And, there’s no traffic!

 

The ride travels through local communities of villages, schools and temples (there are over thirty temples in this area) and a fantastic floating market. Riding is along minor roads, pathways, through alleys, temples, gardens and jungle. In complete contrast to A Journey so far, there are no hills. Some of the canal paths are elevated and quite narrow, but otherwise it’s a flat ride.

 

 A successful (re)negotiation back through the traffic jungle and I was ready for an evening of entertainment by the art of Muay Thai. A style of competition encompassing full body contact, this martial art is presented  twice weekly at the Lumpini Stadium where ringside seats are generally full of  foreign observers. Boisterous locals inhabit the rear stands shouting encouragement and making bets on who will be the match victor. I’m not sure which is more entertaining, the crowd or the competitors.

 

Bangkok is a diverse city and one with a rich history that is accepting of people from all walks of life. If you can think of it you can find it. However, I wasn’t prepared for this condom-Santa welcoming me into the Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant for dinner! The restaurant is one part of the Population and Community Development Association whose aims are to promote and provide safe-sex activities and tools for the rural population in Thailand. Apart from the best Thai food I’ve ever had, the restaurant is decorated by condom-lampshades, contraceptive pill mannequins and boxes of free condoms (“we don’t have after dinner mints, have a condom instead”). Certainly a worthwhile cause presented in a welcoming and fun manner.