USA and the Napa Valley

7 June 2008

San Francisco opens her arms in a warm welcoming embrace, benefiting from inviting those of different cultures into her grasp in creating an area rich in cultural tapestry from the Dolphena running race (the oldest footrace west of the Mississippi), the USA's oldest Italian restaurant within an area littered with Neopolitan-style cafes, neo-gothic architecture, big-band dancing in Golden Gate Park, annual celebrations of the Israeli/American relationship, rich Hispanic culinary delights and 150 pubescent skateboarders all vying for the "Trick Master" crown.

The strength of cycle riding in the area can be seen not only by the number of professional and recreational cyclists on the roads everyday, but also in the history of the American cyclist. Many know of Lance Armstrong, Levi Leipheimer and the many other professionals and teams who use the area, but who of you knows of JS Johnson who held every world record for a period of four years for distances up to 5 miles including the flying mile? Or the fact mountain biking was invented by Gary Fisher and Tom Richey at Mt. Tam just north of San Francisco and where current road riders and mountain bikers still train? This is indeed a rich cycling area....and not just for the bikes!

4 June 2008

The #1 highway north of San Francisco is a favourite for cyclists wanting to hug the Pacific coast before shooting up through California's famous redwood forests. (You'll shrink in size standing next to these behemouths.) This undulating section takes you across the San Andres Fault line and where, if you stand still long enough in Point Reyes National Seashore Park, you'll slowly move up the coast relative to the rest of North America.

Accessing California's famous wine growing region takes you through the towering Redwood trees to the Russian River district and over 130 wineries. Here is an opportunity to sample just what it is that makes Californian wines so spectacular, wines that have challenged even the greatest French samples on the world stage. Given the number and depth of options available it's a challenge to try even a small percentage!

The view from the saddle is just as impressive as you understand why the Astana/Discovery Channel team (and a splattering of national and international professionals) use this area for regular training. The roads are secluded away from the visiting wine traffic providing challenging climbs, exhilarating descents (Howell Road is just one worth mentioning), vistas spanning each wine valley and interesting peculiarities you would expect to find in the city. Think of Emmanuelle "Litto" Damonte (1892-1985) who was recognised by the State Historical Society as being the Pope Valley Hubcap King for his collection of over 2000 different hubcaps adorning his Hubcap Ranch. He is seconded by a similar collection of a farming neighbour who has over 1000 LP records decorating his roadside fence. Go figure....

1 June 2008

Any Journey off the shores of Australia demands a commitment of time and patience. Time to get where you want to go and patience in getting there. Allow yourself these two considerations and you will be rewarded at your destination.

First stop San Francisco, a city of contrast. In a place that has seen dramatic moments of multiple earthquakes, a fire that nearly burnt out the entire city and episodes of social consciousness expressed in various forms, you find a buzzing attractive atmosphere welcoming you into her arms. Strolling through the Italian Quarter I come across The Saloon, the oldest hotel in San Francisco operating since 1861 in a multitude of services and now a central music space for local jazz and blues musicians. Behind the bar is one such local who performs with The Bachelors each Monday night, while tending bar in the day. Downing a cold beer gives Lyn (a local historian) the chance to recant her run-down on the areas history.

The Italian quarter, like many other areas in San Francisco, is rich in history and diversity. From Japantown to the Tenderloin you get the rich tapestry of what this city offers.

Heading north is made easy across the Golden Gate bridge. This great expanse between the headlands is traversed by what looks like two enormous shoe-strings laid across runners with thin strips of thread dropping down to hold six lanes of cars and two footpaths. The rumble and sway of daily life is felt through the bridge's motion built to withstand earthquakes and tremors.

Further on is a favourite for local cyclists: Mt. Tamalpais or Mt. Tam as it is affectionately called. The first effort on riding Mt. Tam makes a significant impression riding up through Mill Valley, past the Alpine Lake, down to Stinson, back up to the top again and then a long and quick ride down through Four Corners, Mill Valley and SF. This ride made me work . Coming up from Stinson it was cruel how the road continually tricked me into thinking I had reached the top only to find yet more climbing around the next (hairpin) corner. The top consisted of a 20 meter plateaux which dropped steeply down giving me the only chance I'll ever get of racing a BMW for line honours!

Never content with The Challenge, I had another opportunity to again ride up Mt. Tam only this time it was windy with cloud cover and mist at the top. Geri, Megan and Kristin are three locals who regularly challenge themselves in and around Mt. Tam and after a short period of friendly "hellos" welcomed me on their training ride. All three race locally for their team Dolce Vita Cycling and use Mt. Tam as a place to help get their legs in shape. Check them out at www.dolcevitacycling.org

Oakland and Berkeley are a complete contrast to the above. Getting across San Francisco Bay by ferry (the two bridges from SF to Oakland don't have pedestrian or bicycle access) lands you at Jack London Square. From there you travel through areas reserved for those who are doing-it-tough, evidenced by the state of (dis)repair of parks, public buildings and homes, towards the University of California Berkeley. The pine scented grounds that were once an area of social re-evaluation and confrontation has been replaced by the laptops and mobile phones of the modern student.

Something that stands out for The Journeyman is the cult-ish following of the Single Speed in San Francisco. Jumping gutters and dodging tram lines, these urban crawlers weave their magic around city streets that would have even the hardened Sydney cyclist cringe with impending doom! No room for hesitation as every second is a chance for more.

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